Andreas Weinas

A reader recently commented that the site could do with some more practical pieces about putting clothes together – rather than commissioning them.

I am deeply appreciative of such feedback. I do try to keep a balance between the pursuits of style, of quality products, and of the fineries of tailoring, but my writing inevitably follows the direction of my activities. Always nice to have a corrective.

In this post, I thought I would make two points about wearing summer suits and jackets.

Douglas Cordeaux Fox Flannel

First, that in the buying of such pieces, it is often best to stick to quieter or muted versions of the bright cloths of summer. So pale grey rather than cream. Light brown rather than yellow.

Despite the colonial associations that this approach aims to avoid, its central theme of elegant conservatism is a deeply English one, and something that always made English style attractive to the rest of the world.

Using the images here from our ‘Rakish men’s’ breakfast in Florence as examples, note the pale-grey worsted of Andreas Weinas’s suit above top (made to measure from Eidos). The muted tone of my own cotton suit (from Caliendo). And the sugarbag-blue of Douglas Cordeaux’s above.

Even Greg Lellouche’s tobacco linen suit (below, ready-made from Formosa), is arguably more subtle than most summer suits offered by ready-to-wear brands, which feel the need to shout about the brightness of the day, rather than quietly reflect it.

Greg Lellouche No Man Walks Alone

My second point – focusing more on that reader’s request – is what these summer pieces are worn with.

Generally speaking, we have all chosen to combine them with either simple, conservative shirt-and-tie combinations, or very bold open-necked shirts.

So myself and Andreas wear white shirts and pretty muted ties. Both sit comfortably without the outfit and create a harmonious whole. Greg’s blue/white striped shirt is equally subtle.

Ethan Newton Brycelands

Ethan Newton (above) and George Wang (below) on the other hand, take the opportunity to wear strong colour and pattern in the summer sun – but do so in a casual shirt rather than a loud suit or tie.

Often a shirt is the perfect setting for such expression, where the same in a suit would be too loud, and in an accessory could look gimmicky.

Ethan’s solaro suit (from Dalcuore) is also a muted summer tone, and even George’s cream jacket below is in a thickly woven linen that creates a more matte, textured background to his bright shirt.

Hopefully that’s an interesting style angle for our reader to play with over the rest of the summer.

George Wang Brio

Photography: Jamie Ferguson

Below, Greg’s bag from Christian Kimber and hat from Post-Imperial, both from No Man Walks Alone.

Post-Imperial hat Christian Kimber bag

Credit: Permanent Style

41 Comments

  1. Dear Simon,
    thank you for the advice. Do you maybe know where the dotted shirt was made?

  2. Simon Crompton

    No, but I can ask Ethan

  3. Also worth noticing is that neither Newton nor Wang has stuffed their breast pocket. Does wonders for keeping the bold shirts under control.

  4. This was a very useful article, Simon. I love reading about your acquisitions too, but would really value more of this kind of writing.
    Thanks
    Matthew

  5. Simon Crompton

    Good to know, cheers Matthew

  6. Excellent article Simon, thank you. I really like your idea of using muted colors such as light grey and light brown.

  7. Hello Simon, why is this filed under hats?
    Great post as always.

  8. Simon Crompton

    Oops, I will re-categorise. Thanks

  9. A nice piece, Simon.
    What are your views on solaro suits, by the way?
    Jake
    P.S. For the record, Ethan’s combination does little for me- perhaps the photo doesn’t show it in its best light- whereas Andreas’ and yours stand out.

  10. Simon Crompton

    Not a fan of solaro really, nice shade of brown but never liked the red tones

  11. Solaro is one of the most elegant- of- all fabrics. But the real one is not for summer. is wool and is rather heavy. A mid season, sunny day only and never- ever at night, exceptional dress.
    Luca
    P.S. Ah, never double brested, btw.

  12. Simon Crompton

    Thanks Luca, yes I know – interested as to why you consider it such an elegant fabric though. Please try to be specific and objective, as well as not relying on tradition. Why would a red/brown two-tone be elegant, when nothing similar is considered to be in any other area of tailoring? I’m honestly interested as I’ve never found a good answer

  13. I have a cream cotton unlined jacket that I love but never wear because I don’t have trousers in a colour that works. Trousers that are too dark look unbalanced and trousers that are pale (in the khaki and tan range) look like I’m wearing a mismatched suit. I’d be grateful for any recommendations.

  14. Simon Crompton

    Mid-grey would be my go-to option

  15. I have found that a pair of cream linen trousers accompanied by snuff coloured suede shoes will look great,both casual and elegant.The difference in cloth between jacket and trousers works well even though the colour is the same.An alternative choice would be olive or tobacco linen trousers plus,of course,said suede shoes be they derby,oxford or loafer.

  16. Interesting article, thank you Simon. I wonder if you have any more info on George’s jacket. I like both the look of the cut and the fabric.

  17. Simon Crompton

    It’s a vintage linen I think, but again I can check

  18. Absolutely love Georges jacket. I just wouldn’t be able to pull something like that off. Looks effortless.

  19. I’d add that the “putting together” articles hold more appeal as they cater for all budgets.
    As for cloths for the summer would you limit it to cotton, linen , seersucker ?
    And which cloth works well with which item e.g. linen for shirt, seersucker for jacket etc ?

  20. Simon Crompton

    The acquisition pieces try to appeal to other budgets as well – eg tobacco suede shoes of any type, and then THESE tobacco suede shoes.
    No, I’d include lightweight wools for suits and trousers particularly. And neither cotton or linen are limited to any item of clothing really

  21. Are you not a fan of silk suits or silk sport-coats for summer? I’m guessing Wang’s coat is silk and linen – but you seem to leave out the “s” word all together.

  22. Simon Crompton

    I like silk in mixes. George’s is just linen though

  23. Simon, where is the top half of Cordeaux’s head?

  24. Don Ferrando

    I love Jamie Ferguson’s pictures!
    Thank’s for posting them in your blog!

  25. Ned Brown/Charleston, South Carolima

    Simon,
    Reminds me of the photographs the great Slim Aarons took 40 years ago of Italian aristocrats in their summer suits. Suit of choice was tan or tobacco, white shirt, black woven necktie, with a white linen handkerchief. Perhaps you can illustrate. Regards,

  26. Simon Crompton

    Absolutely, wonderful example. I will

  27. You and Cordeaux aside, I feel the looks are all far too contrived. And why do guys persist with these tie quirks?
    A nice article nonetheless.

  28. Can you say anymore about the fabric Douglas Cordeaux is wearing? I’m really taken by that shade of blue. Still rather conservative but also out of the ordinary. Looks like great texture as well. Is it a suit or a jacket?

  29. Simon Crompton

    Jacket. I can find the precise linen if it’s still available, although a lot of linen bunches have similar mid-blue/denim options.

  30. Thanks in advance for any info on it. Is it a pure linen?

  31. Hi Simon,
    Strangely enough, I’ve also reached the same conclusion that muted colors for Summer are more elegant.
    See here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2012/07/elia-caliendo-jacket.html
    and here: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2014/06/tommaso.html
    Finding the right contrast between jacket and trousers in this case is a more daunting task!
    John

  32. Can I bother you with a technical question? I am facing the problem that the arm of my tailored dress shirts wrinkle/drape quite a lot in the area of the inside of my elbow (not sure what’s the anatomically correct term for this). Also this area (lower arm, just below the elbow) feels quite tight. Now, my tailor is convinced that this is “normal”, however I find this compression of material (think: accordion of fabric between my elbow and wrist) a bit strange.
    I’m suspecting that the arm may be cut too long and that since the cuff is very tight the material naturally compresses were it can.
    My alternative theory is that the arm may be cut too tight as I never faced that problem in my more American looking shirts.
    To sum up I really like my shirts to fit tight, but I’d prefer to have less wrinkles. What should I tell my tailor?
    Bst rgds!

  33. Simon Crompton

    Would you mind asking on a shirt-related post please? Thanks

  34. Shannon W Hill

    I’d like to know where the pale grey worsted cloth on Andreas was sourced. Despite its lightness in color, it still appears to have great depth.

  35. Simon Crompton

    I’ll check, but remember many cloths used for RTW or even MTM for brands are exclusives and won’t be generally available

  36. Hey Simon,
    Thanks for the constant inspiration, just reaching out to see whether you were able to track down that fabric?
    Best,
    J

  37. Simon Crompton

    It was an exclusive for Eidos, so it’s not available I’m afraid

  38. Hi Simon,
    Really enjoyed this article, especially as one living in the tropics. I have a question not really related, but I was wondering if you have had any experience with Kamakura shirts ?

  39. Simon Crompton

    No, sorry

  40. Great advice Simon.
    What’s your take on wearing white sneakers with a casual/summer suit?

  41. Simon Crompton

    Full post coming on how to wear sneakers. Otherwise have a look at my ‘Which office are you’ post

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