cifonelli-jacket-and-overcoat-bespoke

This outfit was used in a piece written recently for Drake’s regarding corduroy.

The piece mentions some of the associations that corduroy often carries, and ways to avoid them; basically, keeping the colours dark and the fit contemporary.

But you can read that on the Drake’s website. Here I thought I’d run through the thought process involved in the outfit, as that often seems to be welcome.

drakes-corduroy-and-edward-green-monk-strap-shoe

The shade of the green corduroy was a good opportunity to wear a pale-grey jacket.

Such jackets can be hard to match, as we have discussed before, with charcoal the most common partner. But this green is dark enough to work well, and is a nice alternative.

That grey jacket was my double-breasted from Cifonelli, Paris, made in a herringbone cashmere from the SherryKash bunch.

The casual material of the trouser made me go for an open-necked shirt; but its darkness, and therefore the degree of contrast with the jacket, suggested white would be a better choice than blue.

I added a lightweight V-neck navy sweater underneath to lend a little more visual interest.

simon-crompton-for-drakes-frank-clegg-tote

The shoe had to be dark to sit under the trouser, so a dark-brown monk strap from Edward Green.

My navy overcoat from Cifonelli sat on top of all of it, and the pale-grey scarf from Begg & Co seemed to sit exactly halfway between the shades of white shirt and grey jacket.

Dark-brown tote from Frank Clegg, which goes with anything saving the most formal of suits.

And the muddy brown of my Stephen Temkin hat (more on that soon) was a nice autumnal shade alongside the greens and browns.

Overall an outfit that would turn few heads, but had some pleasing subtleties of colour and texture.

edward-green-oundle-shoe

Photography: James Munro for Drake’s

Credit: Permanent Style

38 Comments

  1. Arthur SeaClark

    Hi,
    What last are your Edward Green Oundles on? It looks like an 808 or 888 from the image.
    Thanks,
    Art

  2. Simon Crompton

    888

  3. Hi Simon. This is a very nice subtle alternative to chinos and jeans.What is your opinion on blue corduroys, not as dark as navy but not a vibrant royal blue. Would that be a color to combine with grey, brown and navy jackets?

  4. Simon Crompton

    I’m not a huge fan of them to be honest. OK with grey perhaps, but sometimes struggle with the other colours. I actually prefer dark-grey cords for that purpose

  5. You did not mention who made the trousers.

  6. Simon Crompton

    They’re Drake’s – hence the piece linked to at the top of this post

  7. Dark-Olive cords have always been my favourite partner to the difficult pale-grey jacket – better than charcoal, though not as urban.
    I would disagree with the v-neck suggestion – the V-neck sweater(of which i am not a fan of in general i must admit) is better with a tie than not. A-crew neck- shetland perhaps- since you are sans tie, would be demonstrably better.
    All in all, lovely outfit.

  8. Simon Crompton

    Thanks. Take the point, though I did try a crewneck and it didn’t work that well with the neckline of the jacket.
    I wouldn’t say a V-neck is always better with a tie, but they certainly achieve different things – the V elongating the torso in much the same way as the opening of a jacket, the crew neck being often smarter and neater.

  9. Very nice outfit – which would definitely turn my head!
    Reading about green trousers makes me think of lovat green. It seems to be very common in moleskin trousers, but for whatever reason much more uncommon in other fabrics. I wear a pair of lovat green moleskin trousers regularly, but sometimes struggle both with colour matching and with their (in my mind) heavy country association. Do you have any thoughts on this particular shade of green?

  10. Simon Crompton

    It can be a nice shade – a lot paler than those I normally wear, but with the muted-ness in common

  11. Nick Inkster

    Not a big fan of the grey coat, but white, nay and brown with the green cords is good.
    I love the versatility of good cord, and am a slave to some of the brighter shades you get from Cordings or the Dugdale White Rose bunch!

  12. Olive green is such a versatile colour in my view. Just that bit of colour in a combination such as yours here, Simon but without being overly bright. Very good outfit that says ‘well dressed’ but not attention seeking.
    As for corduroy I am a fan but unlike Nick I don’t go with the brighter shades – the Drakes site shows them with a turn up which is very appealing though maybe slightly too informal with your jacket, Simon? The jacket too – big contrast with all those darker shades makes it stand out rather (not necessarily a bad thing).

  13. The trousers are great but I’m unconvinced by the jacket – rather too much contrast for my liking and a bit too formal. Just my two-pennyworth.

  14. A jacket in a pale tone like this grey may not be everyone’s taste and the range of contrast here is high but in terms of tone as opposed to colour there is little difference between these cords and a charcoal grey trouser.

  15. Hi Simon,
    This is a very smart casual outfit! Excellent choices as to the colors. To me, this green is the most versatile color for corduroy trousers. What’s the weight of the cloth?
    John

  16. Simon Crompton

    Not sure John. Let me check

  17. Very nice but a lot going on – I am reminded of Coco Chanel: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.”

  18. Simon Crompton

    Thanks Michael. I like Chanel’s sentiment generally, but tastes must be pretty conservative for this to have too much going on – with no tie, no pattern and no strong colour?

  19. Yes the tones are muted – I was really referring to the number of components, coat, db jacket, V-neck, scarf, hat…maybe too many V’s for me? Cheers.

  20. Simon Crompton

    Aha, I see. Yes I know what you mean – though I guess it’s rare that you would wear all those things and have your coat open like that. I was doing it so we could see the cords of course!

  21. Hi Machael,
    Chanel had women in mind.

  22. Simon Crompton

    True John, though I think it does often have an application to men that tend to dress a little too dandy as well

  23. I love all the pieces, and I think they work well together, but I feel like there is something off. At first I thought it was the lack of a tie, but know that double-breasted jackets can work well without a tie. I think the V-neck sweater may be competing with a double-breasted jacket.

  24. Simon, three questions: are all of Drake´s trousers made by Rota? Are these cut like the chinos you presented in summer? No turn-ups this time – is it because of the corduroy?

  25. Simon Crompton

    Yes, yes, and yes. The corduroy is a touch thicker and stiffer, which wouldn’t have worked so well as a turn-up

  26. How far from the hem do you put the seams on unfinished chinos? I think it used to be about four centimeters in the days when men bought their chinos in army surplus stores.

  27. Simon Crompton

    Do you mean how much inlay do I leave in the trouser leg when I have them finished, as here?

  28. No, although that would also be interesting. What I meant was the distance between the hem and the seam that is visible from the outside of a chino with finishing like denim not suit trousers (as in this case of corduroy).

  29. Simon Crompton

    I generally just use the full inlay, so as not to restrict lengthening or shortening, turning into turn-ups or even gifting to someone else

  30. What’s in your bag?

  31. Simon Crompton

    A book and my lunch, as far as I recall

  32. I think a light blue shirt could have worked too. Of course a white shirt somehow mitigate the casualness of the trousers, and thus making the entire outfit smarter!

  33. Thanks for this article Simon – quite thought provoking in an odd way…the look doesn’t and does work at the same time (?). The blue overcoat and green cords work well but the clash is with the DB. The formality of the DB is thrown by the more casual green cord; it is a mismatch…yet the pale grey is such a fine foil to the green. If the jacket were SB it would be a more of a matched look but given the mode for more casual forms of DB I think it reflects a more fashion led (and less permanent) form of style. Further to your Cuccinelli article could you consider a piece on the ‘casual urban tailored’ look?

  34. Simon Crompton

    Yes, I suppose so. Though I’m not sure I agree about the jacket/cords balance, as the corduroy is particularly dark and sleek. The jacket feels a little dandy, but not too formal

  35. The jacket isn’t too dandy just slightly out of place, as if it dropped in for a visit but will depart anytime soon. The issue is with the green cords, sleek they are but they will always have a country air about them..however I’d love to see them matched with your Drake’s grey shawl cardigan (pale blue shirt underneath) and your David Taube bespoke Peacoat and the Edward Green top drawer boots (not that your readership has an in-depth knowledge of your wardrobe…).

  36. Simon Crompton

    If only I could afford a valet….

  37. Wow! You’ve really outdone yourself with this one! Great smart casual combination, and so very urbane! Would’ve loved a photo with your hat on as well.. wonderful juxtaposition of texture and color though!

  38. victoriashklanko

    Great read as usual Simon! I’d always been hoping for this article, probably because this is my favorite of all your suits, barring perhaps the Edward Sexton flannel.

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